Once the home of the Maruding Vikings, Denmark is now a snug and comfortable country, its ancient flag fluttering over family gardens rather than war ships. Even if most Danish people suspect they live in the best of all possible worlds, they have the poor taste to say so. Prosperous and orderly, Danes are also endowed with a streak of humor. They're fond of balance, understatement and good design. Like its people, the country's sights are impressive without being imposing. Copenhagen, the country's capital, is a good example: it's a modern, International city that has managed to remain cozy and compact-most of the sights are only a short walk away. Outside Copenhagen, the countryside offers graceful castles, stout churches and small fishing villages that seem to have been lifted from a story by Hans Christian Andersen.